When we published our Rioja report on Monday, we failed to include one key element - grapes! You know those small, round, juicy little fruits that you loved to pop in your mouth as a kid, one by one, or could even be used as killer ammunition against your annoying siblings? Uh-huh, don’t sit there and pretend that you never put a grape in your mouth and spat it at your brother or sister sitting “innocently” across the room. We’re on to you!

Well, considering that the main Rioja varieties are key players in the region’s international fame, we thought it was high time to give you a brief synopsis as to which varieties are most common, and what unique traits they posses to craft a Rioja wine. The main four grape varieties for reds are Mazuelo, Graciano, Garnacha and Tempranillo, and for whites, Viura and Malvasia.

RED RIOJA GRAPE VARIETIES

Mazuelo
Although a commonly found variety in red blends, it is also the first grape to be excluded from the blend. During our travels, several winemakers voiced their dislike because of this grape’s high susceptibility to powdery mildew and producing wines of racy acidity and little in the way of aroma. However, at its best, this wine can add a considerable amount of depth and vibrancy to a wine. Known for budding early and ripening late, this grape is ideally suited for the warm climates of Rioja. It is also the third most planted varietal in Spain, behind both Airen and Tempranillo, occupying approximately 1,184 hectares, or 3.5%, in DO Rioja.

Iberian Synonyms include: Cariñena, Catalan, Cencibel, Mataro, Samso, Tinto Mazuela

Graciano
Let me introduce our sensitive new-age grape, tending to produce very low yields with low PH. This is far from an …

2005 Tobia Rioja Alma de Tobia - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (10/4/2006)50% Malvasia, 40% Viura, 10% other grapes - Fermented in French oak barrels, stirred on it’s lees for 4 months. Sample bottle sent to me from the Bodega.Not sure how to describe this one. Very clear as you pour it into the glass, almost steely and water like in color. The nose is almost as austere at first but really begins to give way to a great fruit/floral thing. Fresh peach flesh sits in the background as flavors of light melon, white flowers(honey suckle?), and soft unobtrusive wood come forward. I REALLY don’t like oak fermented whites, and yet I find I really like this. In the mouth the flavors are balanced by a bright acidity and though fully dry the glycerin gives the mouth a nice weight. Flavors of peach, pear, and creamy vanilla(another flavor I dislike in whites) meld softly in the mouth with great balance and finishing with light melon notes. Melon is a flavor that I stamp this wine with in the end, but the flavors that build to it are what makes this fun. Very surprising!

2005 Bodegas Luberri Rioja Maceración Carbónica - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (5/16/2006)
Tempranillo and Viura blend
Dark and night like in color. Funky nose with deep plum, and rich cherry notes leaving the glass. Think in the mouth with a high acidty the light tannins give way to soft red fruits. Simple and easy to drink, but a bit heavey for such a young wine.